Story by Melinda Burgener
© 1998, 2006 and used here by permission
of the author.

The Marais—the marsh—was the height of fashion in the 17th century. The salons of important intellectuals thrived here in magnificent private hotels built for them by the leading architects of the day. But the court packed off to Versailles and the area fell from fashion. Luckily, the entire quartier was considered not worth bothering about for a couple of hundred years. In the mid-sixties, the government declared it Paris's first historic preservation district when it was rediscovered in its almost pre-Revolutionary state. Mansions were converted to museums. Galleries and boutiques followed. Bars, restaurants and hip tea salons joined the rush. Real estate prices soared. Today, the Marais is the largest historic district in all France—but it is also up-to-the-minute fascinating. If there is a livelier neighborhood in Paris, I've yet to visit it. Where better to hang your beret and meander?

The heart of the "très cool" Marais remains the old Jewish quarter, which was established in the 13th century and has survived continuously since then despite the Vichy government's collaboration during WW II. Hector Guimard, famed for his curvy green metro entrances, built his only Synagogue here in 1913, on rue Pavée, a street first paved in the 14th century. Also make time for a visit to contemplate the new (2005) Mémorial de la Shoah, where 76,000 names of French victims of the Holocaust have been carved into stone slabs—a severe reminder. Kosher restaurants, bakeries and delis scent the air of rue des Rosiers, the main thoroughfare, and make it impossible to move on without succumbing to a snack. Falafel from either Chez Marianne or L'As du Fallafal, or cheesecake from Finkelsztajn are favorites among many tasty possibilities. Cross the rue St-Antoine and follow your nose to Izrael, purveyor of delicacies from around the world on rue Francois-Miron.

The Marais is Paris's challenge to serious shoppers. It's the only neighborhood with many stores open on Sundays. This is a much-needed bonus, for no one could browse all the treasures arrayed here in just six days a week! The Village St-Paul, a jumble of antiquaires in a country-like courtyard is brimming with "junque" that is hard to pass up. Internationally-known fashion names abound: if you can't get enough of upscale Barbara Bui in her one New York store, check out this Paris-designer's four shops in her hometown. For the latest and trendiest in jeans, try Marithé + Francois Girbaud; or for last year's markdowns, there's a favorite of mine, Stock Griffes. Toys and kid's stores are everywhere. Petit Pan, opened in December 2005, is my choice among them for its original, colorful, Paris-designed and China-made pint-size clothing. Boutique Paris-Musées has great gift ideas assembled from small museums all around Paris. Everywhere, there are gay men's fashions to die for and unexpected shops such as the huge CSAO, two inviting levels chock-a-block with African-made dolls, cloth, toys, plates, rugs, etc., that you quickly realize you can't do without. For handsome housewares, don't miss Sentou or the Japanese shop, Muji. The former features sleek modern design, the latter, simple, handsome goods at excellent prices. The eight Muji shops in Paris stock everything: ocarinas, penguin puzzles, folding bicycles, socks, plates, chopsticks. (Why not one-up New Yorkers and bring something from Paris before Muji's MOMA store opens its doors?)

On every narrow street there are shops to catch the eye and lighten the purse. Nadine Delépine on rue de la Princesse, is one of many jewelry stores, but this one makes its pretty baubles in the back and will customize colors to suit. Her reasonably priced earrings, necklaces, and bracelets will delight any princess on your list. Speaking of princesses, an environmental garden memorial to Princess Diana is hidden in a schoolyard behind locked doors. But on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays the doors are open for you to pay your respects.

The largest concentration of individual museums is also in the Marais. The extensive and free museum of the history of Paris, the Musée Carnavalet, is a favorite. On yearly visits to pay homage to Proust's cork-lined bedroom and to the memory of Madame de Sévigné—one of the world's greatest letter writers, whose home this was—I always find something I missed the year before.

The Cognacq-Jay Museum is a little-visited gem. The collected treasures of the founders of the Samaritaine department store are housed in a 16th-century mansion. Theirs is a delicate collection of 18th-century art and furnishings, which is soothing rather than fussy. The pastels by LaTour are beauties.

The Picasso Museum, my favorite in all Paris, is here. The Hotel Salé, in which it is housed, would be worth a visit even if it were not bursting with the prolific output of arguably the greatest artist of the 20th century. In addition to paintings, there are enough whimsical sculptures and funny pieces of pottery to make your kids enjoy looking, too. Don't pass up the bookstore's treasury of post card reproductions. (A complete restoration and building addition will close the museum for a year starting in 2008.)

If your kids are small and were not blown away by Picasso, perhaps you owe them a visit to the Museum of Hunting and Nature (Le Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature). The amazing collection of enormous stuffed animals might turn out to be the high point of your child's Paris trip. A bonus for you is the magnificent Mansart (of roof fame)-designed 17th-century mansion in which these creatures are housed. (This museum is also undergoing a major overhaul and will reopen in June 2006.)

Another kid's treat is the Magic Museum (Musée de la Curiosité et de la Magie), a whimsical collection of automatons, prestidigitation devices, and mechanical wonders. There is a short magic show included in the admission price. A bit further away is the doll museum (Le Musée de la Poupée): a hundred-years' worth (1860-1960) of little people to delight kids of any age. Don't miss lunch at Le Hangar, in the same narrow passage.

The Maison Européene de la Photogaphie is an 18th-century townhouse beautifully modernized. Worthwhile temporary exhibits are mounted and, from time to time, parts of its vast permanent collection are displayed. For fans of the art of photography, this one is essential.

On a smaller scale, the beautiful 17th-century Hôtel Libéral Bruand has been restored and was reopened in June 2005 as a contemporary gallery showing mostly living French artists. It's free and worth a look, even if you're not a collector.

After endless wandering, the best afternoon refreshment in Paris awaits you at the understated, handsomely appointed tearooms of Mariage Frères (one of six Paris locations). A selection of 500 teas—even more teas than France has cheeses!—are offered for purchase by a sales staff clothed in gorgeous natural linen suits. An elegant high tea is just the ticket to get over the comatose-tourist state that kicks in about 4PM.

Another choice for a pick-me-up is La Tartine, the oldest wine bar in Paris, packed at all hours with drinkers of good wine and eaters of tasty open sandwiches (tartines). For more intellectual drinking, there's the pretty La Belle Hortense, where both books and wine provide stimulation.

Buy your fresh foods at the Thursday and Sunday Richard-Lenoir roving market (one of Paris's best),
or on the busy rue St-Antoine, where you will also find supermarkets and a wealth of carryout food shops. Parisians, too tired to cook, are lined up at the takeout counters at day's end. Many of them also line up to buy their bread at Au Levain de Marais, one of Paris's best-rated bakeries.

Dining out in the Marais is difficult only because the good choices are too many. The famous Bofinger and its less costly baby across the way, Le Bistro de Bofinger, offer good seafood. L'Ambassade d'Auverne and Chez Jenny dish up hearty regional dishes in turn-of-the-century surroundings. Au Bascou has excellent Basque food. Just a short walk away, Chef Alain Ducasse recently reopened Benoit, the postcard-perfect bistro that now also serves delicious food. Le Café de la Poste offers a good-value plat du jour. Jo Goldenberg sooths you with chicken soup. What more could a soul want? One visit to The Marais is simply not enough!

Melinda Bergman Burgener lives in San Francisco and writes frequently about travel and food. She has lived and worked in Paris and often returns to write about her favorite city. She has her own beautiful vacation rental pied à terre, which can be seen at www.perfectparisrental.com. You can also reach her at: writeMelinda@mac.com

ADDRESSES

Synagogue 10, rue Pavée

Mémorial de la Shoah 17, rue Goeffroy-l'Asniers

Chez Marianne 2, rue des Hospitalières-St-Gervais

L'As du Falafel 34, rue des Rosiers

Finkelsztajn 27, rue des Rosiers

Izrael 30, rue François-Miron

Musée Carnavalet 23, rue de Sévigné

Musée Cognacq-Jay 8, rue Elzévir

Musée Picasso 5, rue de Thorigny

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature 60, rue des Archives

Musée de la Curiosité et de la Magie 11, rue St-Paul

Musée de la Poupée impasse Berthaud at rue Beaubourg

Le Hangar 12, impasse Berthaud

Maison Européene de la Photogaphie 5-7, rue de Fourcy

Hôtel Libéral Bruand Gallery 1, rue de la Perle

Mariage Frères 30-32, rue du Bourg-Tibourg

La Tartine 24, rue de Rivoli

La Belle Hortense 31, rue Vielle du Temple

Richard-Lenoir market boulevard Richard-Lenoir (starting at rue Amelot)

Au Levain de Marais 32, rue de Turenne

Bofinger 5-7, rue de la Bastille

Bistro de Bofinger 6, rue de la Bastille

Ambassade d'Auverne 22, rue du Grenier St-Lazare

Chez Jenny 39, boulevard du Temple

Au Bascou 38, rue Réaumur

Benoit 20, rue Saint-Martin

Le Café de la Poste 13, rue Castex

Jo Goldenberg 7, rue des Rosiers